The northwest is the least visited corner of Ireland and arguably its most dramatic. Donegal's coastline stretches further north than any other part of Ireland — past the highest accessible sea cliffs in Europe at Slieve League, along wild peninsulas to the lighthouse at Fanad Head, and up to Malin Head at the very tip of the island. It feels genuinely remote even in peak summer, which is precisely the point.
Sligo is W.B. Yeats country. The flat-topped profile of Benbulben mountain, the summit cairn of Knocknarea and the passage tombs of Carrowmore shaped the poet's imagination and appear throughout his work. Yeats is buried at Drumcliffe churchyard directly below Benbulben, his self-composed epitaph carved on the headstone: "Cast a cold eye on life, on death. Horseman, pass by."
Together, Donegal and Sligo form a circuit that rewards three to four days. The distances are deceptive on a map — Donegal roads are narrow and winding, and what looks like 40 km often takes an hour. Build in time to get properly lost.
Suggested itinerary
Sligo — Yeats country
Benbulben is visible from almost everywhere in Sligo — the flat-topped quartzite mountain that shaped W.B. Yeats's imagination. Drive to Drumcliffe churchyard to see Yeats's grave and his self-composed epitaph below the mountain. Carrowmore megalithic cemetery — over 30 passage tombs on a plateau south of Sligo town — is older than Newgrange and deserves an hour. Knocknarea summit walk (1.5 hrs) gives panoramic views over Sligo Bay.
South Donegal — Slieve League
1.5 hrs from SligoDrive north on the N15 past Benbulben and into Donegal. Continue to Teelin for Slieve League — sea cliffs rising to 601m, nearly three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher. The Pilgrim's Path walk from the lower car park takes 2 hours return and gives the full clifftop view. Stay in Killybegs or Carrick village overnight.
Glenveagh + Fanad Head
2 hrs from KillybegsGlenveagh National Park covers 16,000 hectares of Donegal mountain and lough around a Victorian castle. The lakeshore walk (2 hrs) takes in the castle gardens and the deer-grazed Derryveagh Mountains. Drive north via Letterkenny to Fanad Head Lighthouse — one of Ireland's most photographed lighthouses on a dramatic headland, with guided tours available. Stay in Rathmullan or Letterkenny.
Malin Head + Grianan of Aileach
Drive north to Malin Head — Ireland's most northerly point, with sea stacks, a WWII signal tower and far-horizon Atlantic views. On the return south, stop at Grianan of Aileach — an Iron Age stone ringfort on a 244m hilltop above Lough Swilly with panoramic views across the northwest. Return to Sligo, Belfast or Donegal town as your route requires.
Highlights
- Slieve League — sea cliffs rising to 601m on the southwest Donegal coast; nearly three times the height of the Cliffs of Moher, with a fraction of the crowds
- Glenveagh National Park — 16,000 hectares of Donegal mountain and lough around a Victorian castle; the best full-day walk in the northwest
- Malin Head — Ireland's most northerly point; wild headland with sea stacks, a WWII signal tower and far-horizon Atlantic views
- Fanad Head Lighthouse — one of Ireland's most photographed lighthouses on a dramatic headland; guided tours and self-catering overnight accommodation available
- Benbulben — the distinctive flat-topped mountain above Sligo Bay; W.B. Yeats is buried at Drumcliffe in its shadow
- Carrowmore — the largest megalithic cemetery in Ireland, with over 30 passage tombs on a plateau south of Sligo town; older than Newgrange
- Grianan of Aileach — an Iron Age hillfort above Lough Swilly with panoramic views across northwest Ireland; seat of the O'Neill dynasty for centuries
Attractions in this guide
Local tips
- →Donegal roads are narrow and distances are longer than they look — allow at least 50% more time than the sat-nav suggests for cross-county drives
- →Slieve League is accessed from Teelin village via shuttle bus or on foot — do not attempt the upper road in a standard car
- →The N15 from Sligo to Donegal town past Benbulben is one of the great short drives in Ireland — unhurried and almost always quiet
- →Fanad Head Lighthouse offers self-catering cottage accommodation — staying overnight transforms the visit; book well in advance
- →Donegal town is a useful overnight stop but Ardara (30 km northwest), Dunfanaghy or Rathmullan give better access to the county's highlights
- →The northwest in October is exceptional — uncrowded, often settled weather, and the light on the sea cliffs is extraordinary
Ready to go?
Plan your Northwest trip
Best time to visit
May – October (the northwest is dramatic in autumn; Slieve League is best avoided in winter storms)
Getting there
Fly into Donegal Airport (CFN) for direct access, or into Belfast City (BHD) and drive west (2 hrs to Donegal town). Ireland West Airport Knock (NOC) is 90 minutes south. A car is essential — the northwest has minimal public transport. Narrow roads and long distances between stops: allow more time than sat-nav estimates.
Region
Northwest · Ireland
Attractions covered
7 in this guide
